
Eli’s fatty lamb
Keeps him out of final four
Goodbye, snarky pup.
I went back and forth on Eli. I started out liking him a lot, and thinking that in real life, we’d probably be friends. But then the whole “Robin sucks and is awful” thing went on
so long, and he was at the center of
so much of it, and it just made him come across as really, ridiculously immature, and possessed of toxic amounts of that sort of casual ageism and sexism that so many guys in their twenties seem to have.
With Robin gone this week, my personal pendulum swung back in Eli’s favor, which I think indicates how high a percentage of his air time the editors were dedicating to anti-Robin screeds. We’ve seen a lot of negativity from him in the last few weeks, and all specifically directed towards one person. With her gone, we got to seem more generalized, harmless snarkiness.
Oh, and more of his
food, which is pretty damn important since this is
a cooking competition and all.

Anyway, we’ve now arrived at a Final Four that most people predicted six weeks ago, and then spent the last five weeks slowly backing off their predictions of as Jen went into a tail spin (I would like to point out that I was
NOT one of these people. Jen made me plenty nervous at times, but I never stopped believing in her).
And I’m glad. I like the Voltaggio brothers, both in a “they’re talented chefs” way and an “I want to lick them “ way. I heart Kevin because he lives in a tree trunk and makes awesome food which frequently involves bacon. And I adore Jen, because she’s ballsy and talented and she works for my secret baby daddy Eric Ripert. And also, she’s very attractive, and I want her and Michael to have genetically perfect chef babies together.
So I started wondering: is this the first time I’ve liked
EVERYONE going into the finale? And the truth is. . . pretty much. I was ok-ish with everyone in
Project Runway Season 4 – Rami’s draping had driven me ‘round the bend by that point, and Christian’s fame whoring personality shredded my nerves raw, but they also both had their endearing moments. And the other close call is
Top Chef Season 3. While I wasn’t rooting for Hung, I never had the issues with him that the rest of the world seemed to. Actually, my bigger problem with that final four was Brian Malarkey, who always seemed seriously unbalanced in a potentially dangerous way. He wasn't awful -- he just wasn't a dude I'd want to hang out with in a setting where there were so many knives around.
But every other season of both shows, there’s been a Wendy, or a Jeffery, or a Tiffani, or a Lisa, or an Althea, or a bloody goddamn Kenley, or a fucking Hosea, or an
everyone in the finales for both
Project Runway Season 2 and
Top Chef Season 2. (Hm . .. what is it about Season 2. . .?)
What do you do when you like everyone? What do you do when there’s no one to root against? If four chefs cook in Napa and there’s no one I despise, does it make a sound?
We’ll find out soon enough, pets.
Morning!
Top Chef Vegas luxury cheftestant compound! Bryan reflects that this is the last challenge in Vegas, and talks about concerns about money and the fact that his restaurant is slower since he's been away. Kevin puts a rosary around his neck -- which kind of bugs me. It’s not jewelry, folks. But at least he keeps it tucked inside his shirt, so it's not
technically sacrelige – and talks about his wife Eli talks about how Richard Blais is his mentor (aw) and how he was best man at his wedding (
awwwwwww) and how he wants to win it for both of them. “It’s sort of a ‘
my name is Indigo Montoya, you killed my father prepare to die’ situation,” he says.
Minus ten points for saying Indigo. It’s
Inigo, folks. He's a Spanish swordsman, not one of
Rainbow Brite's Color Kids.
Jen reflects on how she’s become unfocused in the recent challenges, and hasn’t performed to her own expectations.
At the M, Padma is waiting with a really short guy. Ok, maybe it’s not so much that he’s a really short guy as that he’s standing next to Padma, who’s a model and therefore a towering. . .5’9”. Um, ok, he’s a really short guy. Anyway, it’s
Gavin Kaysen. Padma counts to five and tells them that out of all the chefs we started with, they’re the only ones left, and only four will go on to the finale in Napa.
Padma tells them that Gavin is there because he represented America in the
Bocuse d’Or, which is kind of like the Olympics of cooking.
Quickfire! Gavin tells them that for the Bocuse, he did a Chicken
Ballotine with crayfish in the middle. He makes a point of telling them that it took him
four months to figure out how to make this dish. This is relevant because the top chefs get to make their version of it in 90 minutes.
AWESOME.
Jen jokes that since a ballotine is a protein inside a protein inside a protein, she’s going to make a turducken. I think it’s a joke. I hope it’s a joke. It’s a joke, right Jen?
RIGHT???
Padma says the winner will have a significant advantage in the elimination.
Food flurry! Kevin thinks that the Voltaggios are taking unwise risks. Eli is making some sort of Scotch Egg thing. Kevin says he and Eli are the ballsiest people left because they’re making home style cooking for
Top Chef.
Jen is making seafood because that’s her strength. Michael talks about how Jen has fallen off as the competition went along, and says “at this point in the competition, I don’t think there’s a whole lot left for her to do.”
Oh, crafty Bravo editors. I smell a Jen comeback! Time!

They begin with Eli’s B
acon-Crusted Breakfast Sausafe with a Six-Minute Egg Center. I don’t know what a “Sausafe” is, Bravo. Is that like a sausage that won’t give you a heart attack or something? Augh. Next is Michael’s
“Poultry Terrine" Chicken with Turkey & Bacon Mousseline. Then we have Jen’s
Calamari Steak, Scallops, Salmon, Shiitake, Shiso with Rice Noodle Salad. Gavin asks “why did you choose seafood?” and Jen says it’s because seafood is her stronger point. “Welcome back,” Padma says slyly. Jen says she feels relieved to hear that.
Bryan has made a
Rack of Lamb & Merguez Sausage Wrapped in Caul Fat. Kevin’s dish is a
Cormeal-Fried Fillet of Catfish with Scallop & Shrimp. "Cormeal" is like cornmeal, but. . .with less n's in it.
Dammit, Bravo. Why do you do this to me? Bryan interviews that Kevin has less finesse, but “simplicity’s ok if it’s done correct.” Grammar is also ok, Bryan, if it’s done correctly.
Gavin gives his reactions. He felt like Kevin’s catfish was a little overcooked, and the breading dried it out. He liked Bryan’s lamb tenderloin. Eli’s concept was great for a brunch menu. He expected Jennifer’s to be tough, but it was very successful. Michael’s was a little more of a terrine rather than a Ballotine.
Michael doesn’t understand where the criticism is coming from, because “he didn’t say make a ballotine.” Erm. . . . he kind of did, Michael. Didn’t he? Did I hallucinate that part, or weren’t those the rules? Michael assures us that if he had made a ballotine, it would’ve been at least as good as the one Gavin made for the Bocuse d’Or. Michael is being edited to look like a bigger ass than usual this week. They must want him to be the villain of the finale.

Gavin says that the chef who reminded him of something that could’ve been in the Bocuse d’Or is. . .Jennifer!!! Yaay!!! She interviews that being back on top has given her a boost.
For their Elimination Challenge, they’ll participate in a
Top Chef version of the Bocuse d’Or. They’ll each prepare a presentation platter with one protein and two garnishes. The garnishes should show technique – the example that Gavin gives is that if they’re making zucchini, they should weave the zucchini into a basket and put something inside it.
They have a choice of lamb or salmon for their protein, and must use a traditional Bocuse d’Or mirrored platter to present to the judges.
Tomorrow, they’ll have 4 hours to cook at the
Alex restaurant at the Wynn. As the quickfire winner, Jennifer gets an extra 30 minutes. She laughs that she needs it because she’s slower than the guys.
They’ll be cooking for 12 judges, including representatives of the American Advisory board of the Bocuse d’Or. . . and
Thomas Keller.
SQUEEEEEE!!!!!! Kevin interviews that the
French Laundry book changed his life.
The criteria for the challenge is taste, creativity, and execution. Their dish should be perfect on all these counts.
Bryan says that they’re cooking for some incredible palates, and it’s going to be hard to present something they can’t find flaw in. Commercial!

Back! Whole Foods! They have . . . .I don’t know how much money, because for the second week in a row, Bravo’s not showing us. Way to go, Bravo. Kevin has no plan at this point, except that he’s cooking lamb. Eli asks “what are you going to do tomorrow chef?” and Kevin replies “I don’t know—pack a fucking suitcase?”
Jen is shown checking out. She’s apparently spent around $225, and she seems shocked by this. . .but we’re not told whether she’s shocked because she’s over or under or what. Again –kudos on that one, Bravo.
Back at the compound. Bryan interviews that they need to start planning their dishes, but Michael goes directly to bed. The others gather in the living room and watch a Bocuse d’Or DVD. Um. . .
NERDS.
Kevin asks Bryan for some sous vide-ing advice so that his lamb comes out consistently. Bryan tells him because he feels like shutting Kevin down when Bryan clearly knows the answer would make him “more of a prick.” He speculates Michael might not feel the same way about giving advice to a competitor. They are really working this battling brothers shit for all it’s worth.
Next day! Alex! 4 hours to cook! Eli interviews that the atmosphere in the kitchen is intense.
Tom thru! Ok, not so much a Tom thru as a Tom appearance. I miss the Tom thru so much.

We’ve been seriously Tom thru deprived this season.
Anyway, Tom enters with Thomas Keller, who is like three feet taller than Tom. What is it with the disparate heights this episode? Keller gives them a reassuring pep talk, and Tom says they wouldn’t have sprung this on them if they didn’t think they could handle it.
Food flurry! Michael interviews that he’s confident because he’s done some

culinary competitions in the past, and adds that he chose salmon because it requires more finesse. Jen interviews that cooking for Thomas Keller is nerve wracking. Bryan says that his biggest concern is the braise. Kevin hopes he’s picked the appropriate technique . Michael interviews that Kevin’s food is consistently good but “nothing too elaborate. The food that Kevin cooks is the food that I cook on my day off.”
So to review, the three themes of this episode are: Kevin makes simple food. The brothers are rivals. Michael is kind of a dick.
REAL Tom thru. Yay! He visits Bryan who’s braising a shank and laughing nervously. He then moves on to Kevin, who explains his sous vide approach as an attempt to do something different and achieve a “subtle and clean kind of flavor” and Tom says “that’s kind of a very different approach than you usually take.”
Damn, Tom. That feels like a bit of a dig there.
He moves over to Michael, who is prepping a salmon with Mediterranean flavors. Jen is cooking some salmon and caviar, and seems to have a lot of her confidence back. She’s not beet red for once, that’s for sure. Eli is making lamb sausage, and is trying to “do things that I normally do, and make ‘em small and sexy and tight.”
Tom interviews that he’s not sure why Kevin is doing something so off his game. He also says that Jen seems nervous. Tom and I may not have watched the same footage just then. Eli needs to pay attention to the details, because those are what separate a good dish from a great dish.
Tom tells them that there’s another surprise with this challenge--the winner will receive $30K.
Bryan laughs nervously. We hear a lot of Bryan’s nervous laugh this episode. It’s not attractive. Jen interviews that “I think all of us are having small heart attacks right now.”
Commercial!

Back! The judges and guests enter a gorgeous dining room. We cut back to the kitchen, where Michael asks Bryan to pull his fish out of the water. Bryan does. Jen interviews that Michael is the only one who’s done any competition of this sort before.
Six minutes left! Kevin interviews that he’s not going to do elaborate presentation, he’s going to go for complex flavor in a simple package.
He enters the dining room and presents his dish to a room full of rapidly named famous faces, including
Jerome Bocuse, son of
Paul Bocuse who started the Bocuse d’Or, and Daniel Boulud.
At this point I scream “BOOOOOOOOOOH – LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD!!!!!” and thrust my fists into the air.

The gatekeeper to the Emerald City is back, baby!
Kevin presents his
Poached Lamb Loin, Sherry-Glazed Beet & Asparagus in Sunchoke Cream, and tops the dish with peppered lamb jus. He says he chose lamb over salmon for sustainability reasons. The judges raise some eyebrows, and Tom asks if it came from a sustainable farm. Kevin says it did.
He leaves and they eat. Tom says he can really taste the chard. Boulud likes the lightness of the garnish with the asparagus and sun choke, but Keller thinks it’s a little elementary given the

amount of time he had.
Michael is in the kitchen prepping and sweating. I’m serious—it’s like Howie from season 3 level sweating going on. Somehow, he carries it off a little better than Howie did. He carries out his giant mirrored tray and presents his
Salmon with Cauliflower Chickpea Tart & Zucchini Tzatziki.
Traci des Jardins thought it was a pretty, but disparate and the Mediterranean theme was a bust.
Alex Stratta finds a bone in his fish. Boulud says he had a total lack of harmony in his composition. Ooooh. . . Michael is totally exiled from the Emerald City.
Back in the kitchen, Bryan is freaking. Jen offers to help, because she has the extra half hour.

She says she’s worried for Bryan. I heart Jen. Actually, I heart all of these guys, despite Michael and Eli’s occasional dickishness, and Bryan’s android-like qualities, and Jen’s nosedive, and Kevin’s wearing of a rosary around his neck. Anyway, Bryan walks his dish out to the dining room and says that he can see his mistakes as he looks at the platter.

He presents his
Crusted Lamb Loin, Lamb Shank Crepinette & Orzo Au Gratin. Oh, yum—I want the orzo. Bocuse liked the plating. Keller was impressed with the platter, but the lamb was undercooked. des Jardins thinks he ran out of time.
Timothy Hollingsworth thinks his demeanor shows that he’s knowledgeable about food, even if this dish is a bit off.
Eli says his food doesn’t have the precision he’d wanted, but he plans on carving tableside. He presents his
Sausage Wrapped Lamb Loin, Carrot Puree & Tomato-Piquillo Canape. Eli wraps a lot of things in sausage. This is one of his best qualities.
Everyone giggles about the cut on the lamb, and Bocuse says it’s so undercooked that “you can clearly feel the raw fat of the lamb.” Oh,
BURF. Padma thought his foam was more flavorful than Michael’s tztatziki. Boulud thinks he had good ideas, but failed on presentation.
Jen thinks her salmon is 98% there rather than being 100%, and knows that with these judges, that difference is critical. Her dish is a
Salmon & Caviar, Shrimp Flan & Truffle, Celery Root & Shiitake. Traci des Jardins says it tastes good, but it’s not well thought out. Her portion of salmon is undercooked, but everyone else likes it. Keller likes the custard with the shrimp, but Boulud’s is undercooked. Gavin feels like “the vision of this dish is at a dead end,” and that the other chefs could’ve done more with the extra time. Padma says Jen’s plate was the most visually intriguing.
Boulud invites them to raise their glasses to Bocuse’s dad. Aw, it’s like the knights of the Mushroom Kingdom’s round table. Let’s pause for a minute and reflect one last time on how freaking cute Daniel Boulud is:

Squee! He’s got a cuteness factor of like 6 puppies to begin with, and the glasses double that.
Gail says that she’s impressed with what the chefs have accomplished in such a limited time. I get the feeling that if you read the judges’ blogs, this is going to be one of those late in the game episodes where they were actually fairly happy with a lot of the plates, but the show has been edited to make them look like disasters just to up the tension.
The chefs come out and everyone claps. Padma thanks them, and tells them there’s one more surprise. Keller announces that one of them will be awarded a spot to compete for the 2011 Bocuse d’Or at Lyons. Ho-
leeeeeeeeeeee shit. Ok, it's not clear from the way they phrase it, but I get the impression that they're competing
for the USA's spot, not that they're just
handing them the USA's spot? Because that would be terrifically unfair.
Kevin interviews that it would be an “honor to represent my country, but it would scare the ever living shit out of me too.”
The chefs go back and clean the kitchen, and Bryan reflects that it could be the last time they cook together. Michael says he hasn’t spent this much time with his brother in years, and he’s proud of everything they’ve done together. Kevin interviews that whatever happens, none of them should walk away from this challenge ashamed. Commercial!

Back! Oh, fake back. Stew room. They all sit around and Bryan says they should all be proud because they’ve cooked for the best chefs in the world. Kevin says it sounds stupid, but he’d be proud to lose to any of them. Jen reflects on how close the five of them have gotten, and Eli says “I love you guys” in a Cartman voice.
Presh. I really do like all of them.
Guys, what are we going to
do with a finale where I don’t hate someone? How does this even work? If I try to recap this show without a target for my uncontrolled vitriol, will it even make sense, or will it just come out like a huge puddle of rainbow scented love vomit with bunnies in it?
Back! Padma enters the stew room and invites them all back to judges’ table.
Padma points out that this is the final judges’ table in Vegas, and it will determine who’s moving forward and who’s going home.
Tom calls Michael out on the un-Mediterranean-ness of his plate, and Gail tells him about the bone in Strata’s portion (my initial write-thru reads “Gail tells him about Strata’s bone,” but when I read back through it that made me laugh like a twelve year old boy). Tom tells him that that said, there were parts of the dish that were great.
Moving to Bryan, Bocuse says that the lamb was a bit underdone, and Bryan says he didn’t want to take it past rare/medium rare. Bocuse says the judges felt like Bryan could’ve done more

with more time.
Bocuse asks Kevin why he didn’t do something more technical. Kevin says he couldn’t have achieved the balance of the “componentry” with something more complex. Sometimes I think Kevin misunderestimates himself. Tom tells him that some thought his dish was too simple for this sort of challenge.
Tom asks Jen to review the cooking process for the salmon, and tells her that the fish cooked a bit too fast. Bocuse says it was the way the salmon was cut that made some undercooked and some fine.
Gail tells Eli there were big pieces of fat in his sausage, and Tom says it was really undercooked. Bocuse says that the fat made the undercooking hard to swallow. Again, this just sounds awful. I watched the entire thing prepared for a
SHOCKING TWIST where Kevin or one of the Voltaggios went home, but every time someone talked about the undercooked fat, I gagged a little and hoped there was enough justice in the world to send Eli home.
Spoiler alert! There is.
Tom says that tonight’s challenge has left him with incredible respect for each of them. As they leave, Kevin says it means a lot to hear that from Tom.
In the stew room, Kevin says he knew he didn’t use enough technique.
Gail said the idea behind Eli’s dish made her want to taste it as it would have been were it cooked properly. Padma laconically calls it ‘the worst piece of lamb we had today” and Bocuse agrees that it’s hard to see what’s right about a dish when that huge a component is so wrong.
Moving on to Jennifer, Gail liked her garnishes but was bothered by the inconsistent cooking on the salmon. Tom takes a note from Bocuse and blames the cutting.
Tom thought Kevin’s was well executed, but simple. Bocuse says the fact that it was cooked well gave him an advantage over the others, who all had flaws.
Tom says Michael’s showed an elaborate technique, but Padma thinks that this time he lost on flavor. Gail says that the protein was perfect, but the garnish was weak. Padma brings up the bone issue again.
Tom says that Bryan used a lot of technique, but the execution was off and the dish was in the bottom. Tom says that had it been cooked properly, they’d be having a very different conversation. In the stew room, Bryan reflects on how he knows what he did wrong and Kevin adds that you can tell from Bryan’s dish that he knew what the perfect dish would’ve been if it had been executed properly.
Commercial! Is anyone else as freaked out by
Latisse as I am? I mean, honestly, does anyone have skimpy enough eyelashes that you’d be willing to risk “increased brown iris pigmentation” to get them longer? Couldn’t you just buy a pair of false ones? You don’t even have to shell out for the good ones—they sell the damn things at Target. Just don’t use shit that’s going to discolor your eyes. It is not worth it.
Back! Tom reminds them that the winner gets $30K and the chance to compete in the Bocuse d’Or USA. And Jerome announces that the winner is. . . Kevin.
Ferreals? O. . . . kay. I mean,

I’m fine with it. I like Kevin. It’s just not what I would’ve predicted.
What would I have predicted? Jesus, I don’t know. I spent the entire episode waiting for a huge twist that never came.
Anyway, yay Kevin! Yay, my little tree-dwelling, rosary wearing, red haired culinary wood elf! Jerome Bocuse gives him an official Bocuse d’Or jacket to wear

while he’s training, and “some reading material.” We don’t get to see the reading material.
Again, well done Bravo. You’d think they’d be better at product placement by now.
Padma reminds him that he gets $30K from the M resort, and Kevin replies “the M resort—my favorite place in the world.” He interviews that
Top Chef has taught him to trust his instincts and his gut.
Back to the other four. Tom says that it’s going to be hard to see one of them go, but there were issues with each dish. Eli’s was conceptually solid, but had problems with execution. Jen’s had great flavor, though the cooking was uneven. Bryan reached high but the lamb was undercooked. Michael’s cucumber was unimpressive.
Heh heh heh. . . his cucumber is unimpressive. Ok, look. I’m twelve. What can I say?
So Padma tells. . . .Eli to pack his knives and go. Ferreals? This is one of those things that’s so

predictable that you kind of assume there’s no way it could possible happen, because there’s no way something could be that predictable, right?
Anyway, he thanks the judges for the opportunity. He’s proud that he didn’t “pooch it” and go out early, and he doesn’t harbor negative feelings to the other chefs. He goes to the stew room and hugs Kevin and cries a little.
Tom reminds the other three not to be too sad about Eli, because they’re all going to the finals. They all go back to the stew room and hug Eli, who tells them “don’t feel sad—be happy for that guy” and gestures to Kevin.
Oh my god, I really do love all of these people. I’m losing it. Be prepared for a two part finale recap where all the i’s are dotted with fucking hearts and smiley faces and shit.
Eli says he’s ok about going home because of who’s moving on instead of him. There are a lot of tears. Some of them might be mine, a little.
Next! Napa! Jen has curls! Padma has bangs! So does Kevin! There’s a train! The brothers are going to bring it! Sibling rivalry! Bloodbath! Salt! Gail is not looking forward to judges’ table!
*This would’ve been a much better title if someone had accused someone of something.